Chef Jacob Ennis on Farmers, Foragers, Fire and the Future
The fourth of July holiday weekend often signals the start of the summer season here at The Pitcher Inn and in the Mad River Valley. It also signals the beginning of the plentiful farm and forest bounty, the inn’s Executive Chef Jacob Ennis reminds us. Between tending bees, smoking meats, meeting with farmers and foragers, Chef Jacob found a few minutes to talk about what he and Chef de Cuisine Peter Heaney are doing to perfect the culinary experience at the inn. A few excerpts follow.
On the inn’s farm partners…
We’re very excited to expand our list of farm partners to include Pebble Brook Farm in Braintree, Clearfield Farm in Granville, and Fieldstone Farm in Northfield–all certified organic. This time of year virtually everything on diners’ plates is sourced fresh and locally (seafood excepted). Sometimes it’s just hours from field to plate.
On unusual finds…
We have a long-standing relationship with two of Vermont’s most knowledgeable wildcrafters, Nova Kim and Les Hook. They’re all about what they deem “wild…the original organic.” Recently their bounty has included wild sarsaparilla, wild ginger, morels, ramps, wild mint, common sorrel, and angelica hearts–ingredients we can’t source anywhere else. And each presents Peter and I with the opportunity to find a way to integrate these flavors and textures into our dishes, to provide guests with a new and different taste experience.
On his backyard efforts…
We’re keeping honey bees at Maitresse de Maison Tracy Kelly’s house nearby and chickens (fresh eggs, anyone?) at my home across Freeman Brook, and we’re sharing a smoker with our culinary friends at the Warren Store (thus house-smoked bacon on the breakfast menu). We’ve also been firing up the wood-fired grill in the back garden for fire-roasted beef tenderloin, coal-roasted beets (off the menu now but likely to return soon), and grilled garlic scapes (thanks Clearfield Farm!).
On a new kitchen…
We’re in the very early stages of planning an entirely new kitchen, which we hope to install during our November closure. We’re going to buy some space by moving the walk-in refrigerator to the barn and reconfiguring the line. We’re also eyeing new equipment, including a smart oven, which allows the use of steam and heat, and a dual-fuel grill, which enables us to cook with wood in the kitchen. All these improvements will enhance the dining experience by optimizing our culinary talents and moving dishes from kitchen to dining room more quickly.
Next time you visit the inn, say hi to Chefs Jacob and Peter and be sure to ask them about their latest culinary discovery or an update on the new kitchen.